Looking out onto Main Road,
Rondebosch from a coffee shop window I reflect on the past 6 years and 10
months that I have lived in Cape Town. I’ve been told it takes five years of
living in this City Beneath the Mountain before you can be considered a “resident”.
So I hope I've made the cut! Interestingly enough, in just over a week I’ll
be leaving these shores for new beginnings in London and so I feel that now’s
the time to write this article taking from all that I’ve gleaned in my time
here.
I find an interesting paradox in
Cape Town. It’s such a diverse beautiful place. An amalgamation of different
creeds and cultures create a beautiful tapestry of people around the city. Yet,
at the same time, it feels very segregated, with the groups sticking very much
to themselves. From what I can see the suburbs remain very much race orientated
and huge class divisions seem to exist. Now, let me stop here and say I am not
an expert on South African history, nor am I an anthropologist or sociologist
so all of my theories are really just speculations from what I have observed.
Perhaps these divides are normal
and inherent in all cities. I can’t comment on that but I feel there is large
scope in Cape Town for these lines to become more blurred and as less rigid as
they seem at the moment.
One of the ways I feel that this
can come about is through public transport. Among the middle class in Cape Town
there is a definite stigma against public transport. Some of the reasons for
this are perhaps valid: safety, reliability, efficiency, and accessibility.
Concerns in these areas are real but I feel many people assume these problems exist
without checking out the reality for themselves. Thousands of South Africans rely on public
transport every day to get to work. If there really is “no good public
transport in Cape Town”, how do all those people manage?
In my 5 years in Cape Town I have
maxed out the public transport system. I had a car for the first three years
but after that, I’ve had to make a plan. As a result I feel I can give some
advice and input aimed at the young middle class as to how you can and should
maybe consider ditching your car and using the public transport available.
I must warn you that this is very
Southern Suburbs biased as that’s where my experience lies.
So what are the options
available? What modes of public transport exist? Let's start with where I started:
The Train
Good old Metrorail. From my
experience, this is the most utilised form of public transport by the middle
class. Many a student has used these yellow and grey trains to get into town
and a lot of people who work in the CBD rely on them too. Perhaps a reason the
train has less of a stigma attached to it is because they have a “First Class”
and a “Third Class”. Anyone who has taken the train will know that the
difference between these two “classes” is really the difference between a
little bit of cushioning on your seat or not. For a couple of rand more you’re
really paying for space as the poorer commuters who are in majority will always
take the cheaper option. Watch any train come by at rush hour and notice how
one end of the train seems to be sardined with people, doors open and limbs
hanging out of every window.
Capetonians seem to view the
train as dangerous. While this may be true for the lines that go out to the
townships and the cape flats, the Southern Line (Cape Town to Fishhoek) is
relatively safe as is the Northern Line (to Bellville). It contains all the risks
one would encounter on any train system in any part of the world: pick pockets,
panhandlers, the occasional chancer who will try a grab and run but if you keep
your possessions close you’ll be fine. I took the train every day for two years
when I was in college and managed. Where safety became a slight issue was
walking around the CBD once I was off the train but the city has greatly
improved public safety in the last few years and now I find it quite pleasant
to walk up Adderly Street or across The Parade. Keeping vigilant and walking
with purpose is always recommended!
Trains operate on a ticket system, available in single (one way) or return. You
buy your ticket at the nearest station specifying your destination and which “class.”
Eg: Single to Cape Town, first class. The price will vary depending on where
you are coming from. Keep your ticket handy because they do random checks on
the train and so don’t try your luck buying a cheaper ticket and riding first
class because they will bust you and they can be quite nasty about it.
It’s also possible to buy weekly and monthly tickets.
Pros of using the train:
- It’s reasonably fast because it bypasses traffic
- Trains are cool
- If you take it to fishhoek it goes along the
coast.
- Cheaper than a car
Cons of using the train:
- It’s prone to delays
- It gets packed
- Out of peak hour, trains are irregular
- Metrorail virtually stops functioning when it
rains
Golden Arrow

GABS, the Golden Arrow
Bus Service has been around since 1861 starting off as a horse drawn tram
service between Sea Point and Cape Town. I only really started using Golden
Arrow buses in the last year or so but I’ve found it to be a very useful and
underutilised service. An amazing thing about it is that you can get almost
anywhere with a Golden Arrow bus. It was news to me but you can get to
Kirstenbosch from Cape Town using the bus, Hout Bay via Camps bay and the
Northern Suburbs. GABS services most areas of the Cape Peninsula. For those
commuting into town from the Southern Suburbs you need only find a bus stop
marked by a blue sign with a bus on it and usually next to a bus shelter
structure. Wait there and soon enough a Golden Arrow bus will come along. If
you’re on main road it will definitely be heading into Cape Town. You can
confirm this by the destination written on the front of the bus. The price will
vary depending on where you get on. Some of the main stops for Golden Arrow are
Retreat, Claremont, Wynberg and Mowbray, so don’t be alarmed if your bus to town
turns off main road at some point. When I lived in Mowbray I’d wait for the bus
to town on Klipfontein road. GABS is also pretty safe, especially along the
main road route. It runs till 9 o’clock at night too but I wouldn’t recommend
taking the bus all the way into Cape Town that late on your own. Tickets are
available at the main stations but can also be bought from the driver as you
get on.
Like the train, weekly
and monthly tickets are available.
A little bonus tip when
taking the bus is make sure you’re hanging on when you get on initially because
the bus pulls away as soon as you step in and it’s easy to lose your balance!
Pros of using GABS:
- Cheap
- More efficient than Metrorail
- Runs later
- Safe
- Services many areas
Cons of using GABS:
- Slower than the train because of traffic and
multiple stops
- Drivers are not always the greatest
Minibus Taxis
Now here’s a controversial mode
of transport! I must say I have mixed views on the taxis. They perform a
valuable service but they are flipping annoying for drivers and commuters
alike!
First of all, they are perfectly safe, especially on the main routes. The
government has done a lot in recent years to formalise the taxi industry
although this process has been controversial in itself. Keep in mind taxis are
businesses, either small scale, owned by a driver or large scale, an owner who
may have a few taxis under him. It is not in their best interest to rob their
passengers! But the old advice still stands. Avoid getting into an empty taxi.
A great thing about the taxis is that there is always one available. You’ll
rarely have to wait, unless it’s a weekend in which case you’ll find a taxi no
problem but then you’ll wait in the taxi because they will want to fill up with
passengers before they move on.
It can be an experience the first
few times you take one but once you learn the ropes it’s quite an easy way to
get around. Some tips and tricks I’ve learned in taking taxis are:
- Have your money handy. It usually costs a
minimum of R6 (at the time of writing) to go most places. Have your coins out
and ready before you get on. The reason for this is that usually the taxi is
crowded and so you will struggle to get your wallet out once inside.
- Know where you are going and communicate this to
the passengers around you. People sit in a taxi according to where they are
going. If you know you are only travelling a short distance, allow the other
passengers to get in first or ask for a seat closer to the door. There is
nothing worse than being in the back right corner when you need to get out of a
packed taxi.
- Learn the landmarks. Taxis stops work on a
landmark basis, eg: Rondebosch pick and pay. Klipper road, Mowbray Shoprite.
Supermarkets are usually a good reference.
- Say your stop out loud when paying the Gaatchi and then again as you approach
your destination.
Once you know
the basics it’s a useful mode of transport. Although it is my least favourite form of the three mostly because they drive like lunatics.
Pros of using the taxis:
- Cheapest form of “public transport”
- Always available
- Always interesting!
Cons of using the taxis:
- Crazy drivers
- Crowded
- The occasional rude Gaatchi
Those are what I consider to be
the three main modes of public transport in Cape Town. Using them is possible
and all it takes is just trying it out a few times before you’ll have it waxed.
One can also get around Cape Town on foot, on a bike or using your friends but
it’s nice to be able to get places without having to bother your mates!
Overall, it’s about
using these modes of transport confidently and with purpose. Even though I
advocate their use and consider them safe, discretion is advised. Be smart,
keep vigilant at all times. The same advice would apply anywhere in the world.
I hope that from
reading this some of you will consider trying out the train or jumping on the
bus. It really opens up Cape Town and gives you a chance to experience the cultural
diversity which exists.
We live in a beautiful
city and it’s worth exploring.
Image credits: